Backyard Bolting

Two years ago I came across Cougar Crag, a climbing area just east of Fallbrook, CA. It had several top rope routes and a few boulder problems. The Cougar Face in particular was one that grabbed my attention. It's beautiful steep 50+ foot wall offered tons of potential for new sport climbs. A few months back, Cameron, Jason, and I talked about bolting it, nothing came into fruition. At this point, I figured if I wanted the face to get bolted I'll have to gather up the equipment. I called my buddy chuck for a hammer drill, ordered 3/8x3in. bolts and hangers from Fixie Hardware, then gathered my gear (rope, harness, grigri, atc, quickdraws, carabiners, hammer, wrench, pipe cleaner, blow tube, duck tape, drill bits, slings, and hardware bag).

Once I had all the gear it was time to get started. First thing I did was drill and bolt the anchors. Next off I rapped and climbed the route several time on TR to find the perfect bolt placements, which I marked with a duck tape X. I then started the bolting process. Drilling, cleaning, hammering, then tightening. The whole process took about three days= 6hrs. two days after I finished bolting/cleaning/ and prepping the route I led it for the First Ascent. It was a pretty amazing feeling and a lot more heady and exposed then it felt on toprope. I don't have a name or a grade yet. I would say its harder than a 5.9 and easier than a hard 5.10 I'd say its around 5.10a/b!

The break down.... A V2/3 first move gets you to a quick rest to get feeling back into your fingertips. After your brief rest you're off on a combination of micro crimps and decent edges to the fifth bolt. Once you make it to the bulge, your at the crux and steepest part of the climb.If you can figure out the beta, your home free! Have fun....

Thanks, Jenny, Nate, Cameron and Jason for your dedication to the area!!
Congrats Cameron Carlson for your onsight 2nd ascent of the route.

 FA

Chris Grant

Chris Grant is one of the nicest guys I've ever met. In addition, he's one of the best photographers in San Diego County. Chris always seems to have the right composition. It's not just about capturing the subject, it's about capturing a feeling. In order to capture a feeling, you must include everything surrounding the subject. Good lighting, exciting subject, a level horizon, fast shutter, and a interesting foreground are a few of the details you will find in a photograph taken by Chris! The photo below was taken at the South Jetty in Oceanside Last month. To view more of Chris's work, go to http://www.jettygirl.com/blog/

Punta San Jose 2012

Every year Jenny and I go on a surf trip to Punta San Jose in Baja. We took the past few years off so the drug  cartel drama could cool down. This was our first year back and it was a good one. We had solid surf the first few days and then just relaxed the last day. This video is just a taste of what goes on during this trip. Everything about this adventure is wild, we are miles aways from any kinda civilization or medical facility. We are really on our own out here...

Dani Andrada

This is a Video of Dani Andrada, Spain's most influential climber. He has helped make sport climbing what it is today.

Michele Caminati

The first time I saw Michele was in the movie CORE. I just came across another video of him showcasing his power and technique!