Backyard Bolting

Two years ago I came across Cougar Crag, a climbing area just east of Fallbrook, CA. It had several top rope routes and a few boulder problems. The Cougar Face in particular was one that grabbed my attention. It's beautiful steep 50+ foot wall offered tons of potential for new sport climbs. A few months back, Cameron, Jason, and I talked about bolting it, nothing came into fruition. At this point, I figured if I wanted the face to get bolted I'll have to gather up the equipment. I called my buddy chuck for a hammer drill, ordered 3/8x3in. bolts and hangers from Fixie Hardware, then gathered my gear (rope, harness, grigri, atc, quickdraws, carabiners, hammer, wrench, pipe cleaner, blow tube, duck tape, drill bits, slings, and hardware bag).

Once I had all the gear it was time to get started. First thing I did was drill and bolt the anchors. Next off I rapped and climbed the route several time on TR to find the perfect bolt placements, which I marked with a duck tape X. I then started the bolting process. Drilling, cleaning, hammering, then tightening. The whole process took about three days= 6hrs. two days after I finished bolting/cleaning/ and prepping the route I led it for the First Ascent. It was a pretty amazing feeling and a lot more heady and exposed then it felt on toprope. I don't have a name or a grade yet. I would say its harder than a 5.9 and easier than a hard 5.10 I'd say its around 5.10a/b!

The break down.... A V2/3 first move gets you to a quick rest to get feeling back into your fingertips. After your brief rest you're off on a combination of micro crimps and decent edges to the fifth bolt. Once you make it to the bulge, your at the crux and steepest part of the climb.If you can figure out the beta, your home free! Have fun....

Thanks, Jenny, Nate, Cameron and Jason for your dedication to the area!!
Congrats Cameron Carlson for your onsight 2nd ascent of the route.

 FA

BIG rocK

Wow, what an awesome day at Big Rock. Upon arrival I went searching for a sport boulder I had heard about on MountainProject.com . When we found the rock it look really good. Great friction, features, and holds. I wanted the new guys to get the first shot at it, so Rex hopped on Kissed by the Sun 5.8 . Jon Went for the second attempt and had a tough time leading it. He came down and worked a route on TR that I sent. It was Praise the Rays 5.8 . After he figured out the crux moves it was smooth sailing to the top. After we all got a climb in on the Helios boulder we moved over to the main wall. Rex and I went for a multi-pitch climb while Jon produced some epic photographs.

Rex looking for something to grab on a bald face. There are very few holds on the lower portion of this climb.

Praise the Rays had a challenging crux move over the bulge. I had to pull off a balancing act with bad smears and small crimps.
Jon pushing over the crux.
This is a shot of Rex and me straight up the Trough 5.5 . All the water water streaks made for a slippery climb. To the left is my friend Marcio from Brazil, belaying up his friend Nate.
The four of us psyched to be he high in the sky.