A Night In New Jack City

I went to New Jack City to teach Steven and Sheena how to lead and maybe get on an 11c project I'd worked a couple years back. The teaching part went really well, but I got shut down on the project. Here are a few images we captured of the night and of me getting crushed on my project. The weather was nice in the morning, but got pretty hot in the late afternoon which made me think this would be our last desert trip of the season.

 ADIOS.....

Just Around The Corner

Bring Your Own Water Dihedral 5.10b/c

Just around the corner lies an oasis of rock sprawled out for miles among Manzanita and Scrub Oak. As progressing climbers, we are always looking for the new line, boulder, or potential project. With enough time and energy you can find the line you're looking for. It just takes some determination. My buddy Buck Branson is one of those guys who's been hunting these lines for years. Last week, Buck invited me to check out this amazing new 50ft dihedral he found.

 After a sweaty 30 min hike we stumbled upon his warm-up boulder area where I watched him send a pretty sick new line up a seam. After one potential fall onto a bad landing, we decided to put a TR on it. Buck sent it right away. The top out was for sure the business of the problem. I tied in and sailed the the V1 rail to the top where I was abruptly stopped by the thin V5ish top out. After some grunting and groaning and hearing Buck's encouraging yell, I scrambled over the top. Congrats Buck on a gnarly FA.

Buck on his new line I call "buckit Seam" V5ish

After moving on from the boulder, we bushwhacked our way another 15 mins up the trail to get our first glimpse of the dihedral. It was the most aesthetic crack climb I'd ever come across.  The weather couldn't have been better: warm in the sun and cool in the shade. 

Top to bottom view of "Bring Your Own Water Dihedral" 5.10b/c

After sizing up the crack and racking up, Buck sent me up the unknown. I knew I'd get pumped at some point and have to take, I just didn't know when. With little offwidth crack climbing experience, I took up what little info I knew and my determination to succeed. After a few steps into the crack and a few karate chops, I was in it to win it.

Cruisin' the bottom section until my first placement (BD #3)

Once I got to the ledge, the midpoint of the climb, I was able to get a knee-bar rest and place my BD #5. At this point I was amazed I wasn't pumped yet and didn't have far to go. I could see the light at the end of the tunnel. After a decent rest and placing a high BD #1, I was off to the races. This was the crux. With a combination of stemming and liebacking I was able to reach the last placement just before the top.

At the overhanging crux looking for jugs

At this point of the climb the crack gets a bit overhung and powerful. Your only option is to reach your hand around the rock for a wrist/fist lock, with a secure left hand you quickly place a BD #2 and clip. This is where I felt like I was going to lose it. Fortunately, I made a risky move for the top and stuck a bomber jug. I was so psyched and pumped at the same time. I set up an anchor and belayed Buck up the beast. He cruised the bottom half until he got to the crux where he accidentally pushed the BD #2 deep into the crack. I could tell he was getting pumped while he was fishing for the buried cam. Finally he pulled it out, clipped it to his harness, and made it over the top to congratulate me on a solid lead.

Short video..
  Bring Your Own Water 5.10b/c (Enhanced) from John Daniels on Vimeo.

Congrats Dan on the FA.
Thanks Buck for the 2nd ascent onsight!

STAY TUNED FOR TWO MORE ASCENTS TO COME IN THE NEXT WEEK OR TWO!!!
The "Bring Your Own Water Arete" and "Grey Boulder Huecos"

Backyard Bolting

Two years ago I came across Cougar Crag, a climbing area just east of Fallbrook, CA. It had several top rope routes and a few boulder problems. The Cougar Face in particular was one that grabbed my attention. It's beautiful steep 50+ foot wall offered tons of potential for new sport climbs. A few months back, Cameron, Jason, and I talked about bolting it, nothing came into fruition. At this point, I figured if I wanted the face to get bolted I'll have to gather up the equipment. I called my buddy chuck for a hammer drill, ordered 3/8x3in. bolts and hangers from Fixie Hardware, then gathered my gear (rope, harness, grigri, atc, quickdraws, carabiners, hammer, wrench, pipe cleaner, blow tube, duck tape, drill bits, slings, and hardware bag).

Once I had all the gear it was time to get started. First thing I did was drill and bolt the anchors. Next off I rapped and climbed the route several time on TR to find the perfect bolt placements, which I marked with a duck tape X. I then started the bolting process. Drilling, cleaning, hammering, then tightening. The whole process took about three days= 6hrs. two days after I finished bolting/cleaning/ and prepping the route I led it for the First Ascent. It was a pretty amazing feeling and a lot more heady and exposed then it felt on toprope. I don't have a name or a grade yet. I would say its harder than a 5.9 and easier than a hard 5.10 I'd say its around 5.10a/b!

The break down.... A V2/3 first move gets you to a quick rest to get feeling back into your fingertips. After your brief rest you're off on a combination of micro crimps and decent edges to the fifth bolt. Once you make it to the bulge, your at the crux and steepest part of the climb.If you can figure out the beta, your home free! Have fun....

Thanks, Jenny, Nate, Cameron and Jason for your dedication to the area!!
Congrats Cameron Carlson for your onsight 2nd ascent of the route.

 FA

J-Tree: The Full Experience

Exhausting Night:
The spring break crowd in J-Tree was in full effect. We left the house around 7:30 pm and got there around 9:30 pm. Every campsite was overflowing with people. We drove around for two hours and to at least three different campgrounds with no luck. We finally found a spot that was paid for, but was not occupied at the time. I looked at my watch and saw that it was closing in on midnight. I had to make the decision to camp here. Cameron, Jenny, and I threw our bags down on a tarp, snuggled in, and crashed.

Real Hidden Valley boulders

Awesome morning:
I awoke to a beautiful sunrise and crawled out of my bag to get a better look. I spent twenty minutes sitting on top of a huge rock like an eagle, watching the sun and people rise around the campground. It was an amazing sight. Soon after the sun came up we sat down for breakfast. Jenny and I each had a granola bar and a banana. Cameron on the other hand decided to take down 8 slices of Angel food cake. It was a priceless sight. Don't worry it didn't end there. The next victim was a bag of jalapeno chips and nacho cheese. That didn't last long. Cameron decided it was too early for the chips and cheese and gave up.

Day 1 Climbing:
Our first day was filled with adventure. We went to Hall of Horrors where Cameron put up the first climb. It was a tricky friction climb on small holds. House Of The Homeless 5.9. Once I got up there on TR to inspect, I was astonished with what Cameron climbed. I had to take a minute to look around for holds, it was slim pickings up there. Jenny did a great job following and then decided to pack up and try some Trad climbing. We all needed to practice our placements before we took on the bong 5.5 at the end of the day. Quail Springs was our training ground. We tackled a fun 5.4 called Eschar.

Cameron flashing House Of The Homeless 5.9.
My beautiful wife getting a tan while looking for decent holds.
Building up the courage to make the move.
First Trad lead of the trip on Eschar 5.4 at Quail Springs.

The Scare:
By this time, we had been out in the 85 Degree heat for a while. My wife was really starting to feel it. I had her drink Gatorade and water fast. We decided to go back to camp and rest. Jenny's symptoms worsened and she began to vomit. I was now getting a bit worried. I once was also a victim of heat exhaustion. I knew the symptoms first hand and how bad the situation could get if not treated . Cameron and I put a sleeping pad for her in the shade and watched over her, having her drink occasionally. A nice long nap was much needed. Jenny woke-up feeling much better.
We decided to head over to Hidden Valley Campground to try the Bong. I got all racked up and went for it. Cameron and Jenny both followed flawlessly. It was an amazing ending to the day. The Bong 5.5 was finished!

Racked and Ready for the Bong.
Full jams.
Cameron finishing the crux move over the roof.

Wild Night:
We left HVC and went back to camp beat. We started a fire, relaxed, hydrated and told stories for a few hours. Before you knew it the rest of the crew was pouring in. I fired up the dogs on the grill and welcomed Taylor, Jessica, Jon L., Jon N., Garrett, and Chance. We were all having a blast with full belly's and smiling faces. Around midnight we had to call it a night. There were climbs to crush in the morning.

Taylor loves hot dogs!
Jon, Jon, Garrett and Chance mesmerized by the fire.
Creepy light show...

Go Time, Day Two:
The morning came fast and some were definitely wishing they got to bed a bit earlier last night. Breakfast burritos were next on the agenda. Todd and Lynn showed up during breakfast. While everyone was eating, Taylor and I planned out the day. First stop was bouldering at the Real Hidden Valley. Every one put in good work there. It was the strongest I had seen Cameron climb! All of his late nights at Vital finally paid off. We worked; Turnbuckle Slab V-Easy, Turnbuckle V1, Block Party V3, So High V5R. Next on the list was a climb around the corner or Atlantis Wall. Both were packed. Our next plan of attack was Echo Cove.

The Crew minus my talented wife behind the camera.
Todd getting the first onsight ascent of the turnbuckle slab V-easy.
Jenny warming up on the Turnbuckle.

Crushing the cove:
This was the chance for me to push my Trad skills on a steeper face. I felt my Trad limit was in the 5.6-5.7 range, but Taylor thought I could pull off Fun Stuff 5.8. The climb was a bit intimidating at first. It had a rough start. I had to climb really small holds and almost no feet over a bulge about 12ft off the ground. It really wasn't too bad. I went into this climb thinking this was the crux move and later found it wasn't. I had good placements and jugs 80 percent of the way up. The very top was a bit runout for the move I had to make. I felt around for a minute and found a bad seam for my right hand. I knew this was it and had to commit. I did look down to see where my last piece of PRO was and it was 6-8 ft. away. If I came unstuck I would be fine, but it was a 12-16ft. ride I didn't want to take. I felt strong and confident and went for it. SUCCESS! I was super psyched to finish the climb. It was right at my level and tons of fun. Cameron, Jenny, and Todd just flew right up it. Lynn and Jon N. also made it look way too easy.

Placing gear in the crack on Fun Stuff 5.8.

Lynn meeting up with the crux.

Bring the Heat:
From the moment we arrived on Thursday night I knew something big was coming. Everyone on the trip was having a blast pushing their limits. When Taylor shows up, you know its on! I've seen him pour out his heart and soul into pushing hard climbs. He's accomplished climbing feats that most only dream of. This was the time and place for him to shine. There was a beautiful overhanging sport climb calling his name. Ground up or Shut up 5.11b was the challenge. I was praying for him to get an onsight. When he left the ground and powered through the bouldery start, I knew it was going to be close to his limit. He looked strong, clipping a few bolts low and putting a few pieces of PRO in the middle section. The next part looked ridiculous, slightly overhanging with really tiny holds. If you make it past two bolts, its a crimp fest which leads to a dyno to the top. Taylor made a few moves and ran out of holds missing his onsight. I was bummed for him, but the climb was not over by any means. He backed down and found the missing hold. Now its full-steam-ahead, clipping and crimping . At the last bolt it was liftoff, I held on tight to the rope waiting for the tension from his fall. There was no fall. I looked up and saw him holding on with one hand. He nailed it and pulled himself over the top. I was amazed. I jumped on the route on TR, made 3/4 of it clean. I was stopped and puzzled by the middle section. I had to go off route and back on to the right. I then threw for the top and couldn't stick the dyno. I was gassed and had to give up. I never give up. I just sat there in amazement at what Taylor had accomplished.

Taylor cleaning his gear after the ascent. A good look at the steep face!
Thinking about the send of Ground up or shut up 5.11b.
Traversing right back onto the face for more pain....

THANKS
Jenny, Cameron, Jon L., Jon N., Lynn, Todd, Taylor and Jessica!
What an awesome trip!!....

You can find more park and route info at: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree_national_park/105720495

BIG rocK

Wow, what an awesome day at Big Rock. Upon arrival I went searching for a sport boulder I had heard about on MountainProject.com . When we found the rock it look really good. Great friction, features, and holds. I wanted the new guys to get the first shot at it, so Rex hopped on Kissed by the Sun 5.8 . Jon Went for the second attempt and had a tough time leading it. He came down and worked a route on TR that I sent. It was Praise the Rays 5.8 . After he figured out the crux moves it was smooth sailing to the top. After we all got a climb in on the Helios boulder we moved over to the main wall. Rex and I went for a multi-pitch climb while Jon produced some epic photographs.

Rex looking for something to grab on a bald face. There are very few holds on the lower portion of this climb.

Praise the Rays had a challenging crux move over the bulge. I had to pull off a balancing act with bad smears and small crimps.
Jon pushing over the crux.
This is a shot of Rex and me straight up the Trough 5.5 . All the water water streaks made for a slippery climb. To the left is my friend Marcio from Brazil, belaying up his friend Nate.
The four of us psyched to be he high in the sky.